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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I would start a new post about the engine removal on my 1971 W114 250c with an M130 engine in a pursuit to find the knocking noise when hot.
Head has been removed and at the shop for valves overhaul, and most of the components around the engine block are out.
I've started the process of cleaning and painting some of the parts so i don't have to do later all at once.
Off course few visuals. I will update as I go along. Any questions let me know (I will probably be the one asking most of the questions)
Water pump before
Water pump after cleaning
Water pump after paint
Fan
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original finish
Hey kavadarci,
I have a '66 250SE coupรฉ and I think both our cars have the same engine...
I've noticed that you painted the water pump so here is my question:
- I do like the finish of painting silver over bare metal but originally these parts were not painted but I'm not certain how to get the right bare metal finish. I wonder if one can use a soda blast?
Don't take my question as a criticism, painting is a great option that I'm considering myself!
Thanks,
Pedro
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Pedro
You are correct originally they were not painted but with the available oil resistant heat resistant paints why not add a little bit of shine
I am painting my engine block with VHT (dupli color also has the paint) paint and oil resistant paint
I clean the part first with metal brush and then wash with water and soap if possible and before paint I use acetone to clean everything
Once painted items are so much easier to clean since oil doesn't stick
My plan is the engine block to be black parts attached to it silver and the fan and head cover red
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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You will have to remove the block and mount it on an engine stand. Harbor Freight had one that will work, use the 4 wheel one. Remove the upper oil pan and remove the bearing caps. keep them in order and orienation. Check the condition of the bearings for wear. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps, keep them in order and orientation too. Check the condition as well.
If they look fine, get some 'plastigauge' from your fave parts store and follow the direction. Look in your repair manual to get the right size for your bearing clearance.
Then remove the pistons and rods from below, the block is upside down, and check the pistons and cyl walls for wear or scoring.
Take lots of pics and post them.
71 300SEL, 16 BMW Z4, 58 MGA, 80 Triumph TR7, 85 Porsche 911
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Kav, in the pic of your engine, up close, do I see the first cylinder gunkafied? Looks like deposits of some kind?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kav, in the pic of your engine, up close, do I see the first cylinder gunkafied? Looks like deposits of some kind?
Yes correct
I haven't done any cleaning
I will do it once the pistons are out
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Be aware not to use any scrapers, abrasives etc on the block and head gasket sealing surfaces. They are machined to a specific RA finish to enable the head gasket to seal and damaging the surface especially around the fire rings is not good. This is a major cause of blown head gaskets.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Be aware not to use any scrapers, abrasives etc on the block and head gasket sealing surfaces. They are machined to a specific RA finish to enable the head gasket to seal and damaging the surface especially around the fire rings is not good. This is a major cause of blown head gaskets.
Ok
What do you recommend for cleaning and how?
Bought the bolts today for the lift and engine stand is assembled
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300sel W109, 280S 70 , 220s 62. 230 66. Lancia Flavia 63.Pininfarina
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Kavadarci
while the manifold is out have it and the mating surfaces checked with a straight edge for any possible warpage .
71 300SEL, 16 BMW Z4, 58 MGA, 80 Triumph TR7, 85 Porsche 911
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Kav, for that first, gummed up piston, how does the head look? Perhaps this is the source of your rattling?
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Head is at the shop to refresh it by checking all the surfaces, install new valve guides and manifold bolts
The guy quickly looked at the head and said is in fantastic shape
Here is the engine lift and fed more parts painted
Alternator Prepped for paint
After paint
Steering pump cleaned and drying before paint
I realized I'm out of black paint so will have to wait
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Looking really good! With all of the work you are doing on this car, you will have to keep it and pass it on to the kids/grandkids.
Keep the pictures and progress coming.
When I cleaned my alternator I took it apart, there is a bearing that is replacable in there, also, I pulled out the old grease and replaced with new.
68 250S, 91 300se, 98 SL500, 450SEL 6.9, 14 CLS550 Past MB's; 300SD, 300E, 300TE, 190E, ML420
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you can soda or sand blast parts clean. there is paint avail to make it look like bare metal. Eastwood Detail Gray Paint - Stamped Steel Appearance
or you can paint whatever color you want.
I've noticed that you painted the water pump so here is my question:
- I do like the finish of painting silver over bare metal but originally these parts were not painted but I'm not certain how to get the right bare metal finish. I wonder if one can use a soda blast?
Don't take my question as a criticism, painting is a great option that I'm considering myself!
Thanks,
Pedro
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1,151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Further update.
i got my carbs back from a complete rebuild and boy am i glad i didn't do this on my own.
Few items on the carbs:
he cleaned them in few chemical baths and final coating bath.
brass and few other metalic parts were cleaned via ultra sound cleaner.
an idle needle was missing on one and few membranes were gone.
bottom plastic plate had crack and he said it was leaking air without a doubt.
bench tested and all positioned properly according to the rebuilder.
took him two weeks to finish them (probably didn't work on them all the time).
He said whoever had this car did all properly as these were the cleanest carbs he ever had to rebuild, (29 years in business).
I am very pleased with how they turn out but off course the final test is when i install them on the engine.
before after pictures:
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anywhere from '52 300 to 1990 560SEL,and a '93300TE nothing newer, too much trouble....
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Hey kavadarci,
I have a '66 250SE coupรฉ and I think both our cars have the same engine...
Thanks,
Pedro
I don't think they're the same.
I believe the 250SE had an M129 fuel injected motor, (a continuation of the M127 (220SE and 230SL) motors).
UNLESS , Pedro you had somebody install a 250/8 carburated motor into your car before your ownership....
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kavadarci,
where did you send your carbs for rebuilding? Im interested in maybe getting mine done as well.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
kavadarci,
where did you send your carbs for rebuilding? Im interested in maybe getting mine done as well.
I got them to carbs rebuilders in Toronto
2nd generation of carbs rebuilders shop
Everyone claimed they are the best in Toronto area and my experience with them confirms.
Extremely knowledgable and had zeniths rebuild before, recent before mine for a Mercedes dealership
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Finally the engine with the tranny is out
It was not as bad as thought it will be and the tranny does add weight
Next is cleaning and separation of the tranny from the block
Pictures
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Flex disc is in fantastic condition.
I will only replace the plastic coated nuts
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Source: https://www.benzworld.org/threads/m130-engine-removal-rebuild.1812322/
Posted by: modestomodestosimonellie0272785.blogspot.com
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